o say the captivating hill town of Civita Castellana is ancient does not quite do it justice. It is, in fact, centuries older than Rome itself! Known in ancient times as Falerri, it was the seat of power of the Falisci, a Latin tribe whose constant wars with the Romans ended abruptly in the 4th century BC when Camillus claimed a final, devastating victory. Today, the area is rich in Roman and pre-Roman remains as well as many enthralling vestiges of the Italians who came later. The 12th-century Santa Maria Maggiore cathedral, for example, is among the town's highlights. Set amid rolling farmland just 100 miles north of Rome, Civita Castellana offers visitors a most memorable flavor of Italy.
Your sanctuary is the elegant Relais Falisco Hotel, a beautifully restored palazzo located in the historic town center just a few steps from Santa Maria Maggiore cathedral and the San Gallo fortress. Each of the buildings that comprise the Relais offers views of a lovely internal courtyard, or
piazzetta.
Thanks to the detailed restoration work, this antique borgo has regained its past splendor, providing visitors with authentic examples of architectural styles dating from the 1600s to the present. The hotel's romantic Sala Camino and its panoramic terrace are perfect for enjoying leisure activities, like reading, chatting with friends or savoring a fine glass of wine, while the views from the watch tower are simply stunning. Adding even more appeal to this unique property, the Etruscan cave houses a Jacuzzi!
The palazzo's former stables have been delightfully transformed into the Scuderia Ristorante, where Chef Sergio and his wife Daniela will conduct your course.
Chef Sergio, a master of the finest Italian cuisine, presents every dish as a work of art. Moreover, Sergio is a showman who shares his gastronomical secrets with humor and with insight into the history of each dish. His course is truly an unforgettable experience.
The ingredients found in Sergio's specialties reflect the essence of northern Lazio cuisine — and are, in fact, the very same as those favored by the ancient Etruscans: mutton, wild boar, locally grown fruits and nuts, wines, and savory cheeses made from sheep's milk, such as ricotta and pecorino. Sergio has built on this region's ageless culinary heritage to create his own incomparable version of fine Italian cuisine.
Day One
Arrival by train to Civita Castellana where you will be greeted and taken to the fabulous Relais Falisco Hotel. Settle into your room, explore the hotel palazzo and grounds and then join Sergio at La Scuderia Restaurant for a welcome cocktail and course explanation.
Day Two
Your cooking course begins after breakfast with an emphasis on first-course dishes. Among Sergio's specialties are
strozzapreti (a type of pasta translated as "priest strangler!") with an eggplant and spicy provolone sauce; fettuccine with a taleggio cheese and asparagus sauce; and
maltagliati pasta with ricotta, pine nuts, fresh basil and freshly grated parmesan cheese. Or you might learn to prepare Italian rice with fresh zucchini flowers and shrimp... or ravioli stuffed with artichokes and parmesan cheese and served with a lemon sauce.
Following the delicious lunch that you've created yourself, perhaps you'd like to relax in the Etruscan cave Jacuzzi or visit some local sites such as the Santa Maria Maggiore cathedral, the masterpiece of Jacopo di Lorenzo and his son Cosma, who built its façade in 1210 AD.
Day Three
Prepare yourself for a fabulous outing in the countryside to the wine producer at Tenuta La Pazzaglia, where we will enjoy a delicious lunch and, of course, taste the wines.
Day Four
This morning's cooking class will focus on main courses. Chef Sergio may share his fabulous recipe for wild boar with white wine and rosemary, or he may decide on turkey breast with rucola and gorgonzola. Lamb and capretto alla cacciatore; beef stracetti with taleggio cheese, porcini mushrooms and potatoes; or beef fillet with a carrot, zucchini and balsamic vinegar sauce are some of Sergio's other favorites.
Day Five
Desserts are the theme of your morning class today. Tiramisù with ricotta; zabaglione smothered with wild berries; semifreddo with an apricot and cherry sauce; and ricotta mousse with a white chocolate and orange sauce are just a few of Chef Sergio's spectacular desserts! This afternoon you will visit a ceramics producer to see how the artisans make their beautiful hand-painted pottery for export around the world. You will also be able to purchase ceramic gifts to take home.
Day Six
Following this morning's cooking class you're off to the nearby town of Caprarola where you'll visit the
local sites and tour the outstanding 16th century Palazzo Farnese, a masterpiece commissioned by a member of this powerful and noble family, Cardinal Alessandro Farnese. After lunch we'll visit a local olive oil producer.
Day Seven
Following a leisurely morning for shopping or sight seeing on your own, join Chef Sergio for your farewell lunch at La Scuderia. Course certificates, recipe booklets and commemorative hand-painted ceramic platters will be distributed. Then it's off to the train station for your return to Rome.
